The Smoly Adventures: Italy

Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

After our journeys in Brittany and Normandy, we all were ready for another beach vacation where the water was significantly warmer than the English Channel. We had family scheduled to come and visit us at the end of June/beginning of July, and it was jointly decided that Sicily would be our destination of choice; though getting there would end up being an adventure in and of itself.

Once again, we flew Ryanair, and for the prices, who wouldn't? Departing Frankfurt was straightforward and we landed in Catania, located south of Mt. Etna, basically on-time. The AirBnB we had reserved was located about an hour south of the airport, so we were eager to get on our way... only to find out that our rental car, reserved many months in advance, wasn't available. The short version was that the van we reserved had been checked out prior to our arrival and the agency allowed the prior renter to extend their reservation--putting our 7-person group in a quandry. Two hours later, we had two vehicles (the second one at no-cost to us), and were finally on our way south to Lido di Noto.

During this entire episode, I had been in communication with our AirBnB host regarding our status, who was genuinely shocked and dismayed at our experience. Once we were on the road, our host asked if her in-laws, who lived on a section of property, could prepare some pasta for us once we arrived; we accepted this gracious offer, not realizing what was about to happen.

After the tumult of the rental car agency, we welcomed the easy drive on the Sicilian highway. We arrived at the AirBnB parked the cars inside the gated yard and were shown the residence. Then our host's in-laws provided some food. Fresh bruschetta was laid out before us on the table, as was a small meat and cheese tray. Being well past 10 pm, we figured we'd call this dinner and retire for the evening--then the pasta came. A huge bowl of piping hot pasta, sauce and fresh basil. Never before had we had such a meal or hospitality! We went to bed with full stomachs looking forward to the next day.

Daybreak came, everyone slept in, some arose; then a knock at the door. It was our host bearing a tray of fresh garlic bread. A short while later, another knock and a fresh pizza was presented. To this day, I am blown away by the Sicilian hospitality we experienced. If you go to southeast Sicily, definitely considering this AirBnB!

We selected our AirBnB for its proximity to one of the island's family friendly beaches. The Italian government rates beaches using a color system, and Lido di Noto owns the highest rating. An easy 10 minute walk from the house, the beach was perfect for our boys. We spent three long mornings on the sand and in the water. The boys enjoyed the sandbar and Sam taught himself to swim with his float vest! We ate dinner twice at the Alta Marea restaurant right on the beach. The food, the wine and gelato were great and we'd recommend it to you all.

About 30 minutes inland from Lido di Noto is the city of Noto, a UNESCO world heritage site. Known for its three cathedrals, it was amazing to see not one, but three Sicilian weddings taking place in their finest suits and dresses. We walked the main thoroughfare, pausing for dinner at a small restaurant near the central cathedral and watched in amusement as the photographer attempted to wrangle the wedding party for photos before the happy couple departed in their Maserati.

Our departure day came and it was hot. Sweltering. An area of high pressure came up from the Sahara Desert and began settling itself over Europe delivering above 100 degree temperatures. As we drove north toward Catania, we stopped in Syracusa to visit the Neapolis Archeological Park, which was one of the larger settlements of Magna Grecia. The highlight is the Greek amphitheater that could seat several thousand. Have I mentioned that it was hot? After walking to the amphitheater, we took refuge in a dug-out cave before making our way to the Ear of Dionysius. The Ear is a man-made cave carved into the solid rock and extends for some 65 meters. The boys enjoyed hearing their voices echo throughout the chamber.

We wrapped up our time at Neapolis with cold drinks and ice cream, and then fled to the air conditioned confines of a mall near the airport. Yes, we hid out in a mall for a few hours--the heat was downright unbearable--especially with Janet being just past 20 weeks pregnant at the time. We grabbed lunch, and another ice cream before heading to the airport and our flight back to Frankfurt.

We loved Sicily and only scratched the surface of all there is to see. Sicily is a place that we'd definitely go back to with Palermo and the Valley of the Temples at the top of our list to visit.

This post has been a year in the making... more recent trips are forthcoming. 😀

Living in Europe affords the ability to do things that many would not normally consider. Take Thanksgiving for instance. Thanksgiving is a day of turkey trot 5Ks, bountiful meals, sports, family and friends. After arriving in Germany back in 2017, we made the decision that Thanksgiving would be a strategic travel opportunity for our family. 2017 took us to Disneyland Paris; in 2018, we set off for Rome!

Rome is a place that I've read about, studied, and dreamed about visiting. Few currently occupied and in-use cities can match its more than 2,700 years of existence. Including our travel days, we spent eight days in Rome and the surrounding areas. Yes, we could have done Rome in three or four days; but with young kids, having the extra days to spread things out allowed us to enjoy a more leisurely pace through the city.

Rome can be divided into three categories when planning an itinerary. Ancient Rome, Christian Rome, and Modern Rome.

Ancient Rome

Ancient Rome was the major draw for me--the Republic, the Senate, the Forum, the Punic Wars, the triumvirates, the caesars, the slow decline and fall of the Empire. This is the history that has held my fascination for most of my life. Driving on the shuttle from the Ciampino airport south of the city to our AirBnB, I realize we're driving on the Via Appia; a few minutes later, we're driving next to, then through the Servian Wall. While many of the Republican and Empire sites have been sacked, carted off, or are otherwise in a state of ruin, large sections and locations are intact.

Our AirBnB was about 20 minute by street tram to the core of Ancient Rome. It was a two-bedroom apartment located right next to a tram, bus, and train station. While not located in the core of Rome, we managed to save money by staying further out.

First on the agenda was the Colosseum and the Forum. The Colosseum is enormous--pictures do not do it justice. It is a massive structure, and the fact that it was designed and constructed between AD 70-80 makes it even more impressive--reinforced by the fact that while covering a smaller footprint than modern stadiums, the Colosseum still sat 80,000 spectators at a time... the same as MetLife Stadium (home to the NY Giants and NY Jets). The best tip we can offer is to purchase your Colosseum tickets for a specific timeslot ahead of time to minimize your waiting.

Between the Colosseum and the entrance to the Forum stands Constantine's Arch. Dedicated in AD 315, the arch is in pristine condition. Adjacent to these was the eastern entrance to the Forum complex. While the Colosseum and Constantine's Arch were impressive, the Forum was the beating heart of Ancient Rome. This is where the Republic was founded and run for over 700 years. Walking in the same place as many of the great Roman statesmen once did is something I'll not soon forget. South of the Forum proper sits the Palantine Hill imperial complex where every Caesar starting with Augustus made their residence.

On the Northeast corner of Piazza Venezia sits Trajan's Forum, Mercado and Column. Trajan's Column is especially impressive since it documents the campaign of the only person to have successfully conquer and pacify what we now know as the Middle East. Trajan himself stood and looked out over the Persian Gulf.

The last bit of Ancient Rome for our trip was a day-trip out to Ostia Antica, the former port city of Rome. Ostia, was easily my favorite site visited. Yes, Trajan's Column, Titus' Arch were impressive to see, but Ostia gave you a better understanding of how the average Roman citizen lived. It is a fairly well preserved complex, with many buildings still featuring their original designs. The baths with their intricate in-laid tile mosaics; the other baths with their intact steam rooms and restrooms; and my personal favorite, the fully intact Roman tavern, complete with bar, kitchen and outdoor seating.

Christian Rome

Moving forward in history, Ancient Rome gave way to Christendom and the history of the Roman Catholic Church was on full display. The cathedrals were grand, ornate and incredible works of architecture. If I'm being honest, I was disappointed with St. Peter's Basilica (right). Yes, it was grand and ornate--as were nearly every church throughout Rome--yet, there was something distinctly out-of-place--lifeless is the word that comes to mind. The Vatican Museums were impressive for the wide array of artifacts that it housed, not only from the centuries of Christendom, but also from the Ancient Roman and Greek periods as well--seeing the School of Athens in-person was amazing! While the tour was okay, you pay for it (or the self-guided version) in order to gain access to the Sistine Chapel. Michelangelo was talented beyond words, and photos cannot do justice to seeing his work with your own eyes. One of the highlights of the many churches/cathedrals we visited was an intricately painted ceiling that when viewed by the mirror in the center of the floor, provided a captivating 3D effect.

Modern Rome

Modernity has left its mark on this ancient capital. The Alter of the Fatherland dominates the Piazza Venezia and soars above the Forum, and Trajan's Column. Trevi Fountain was spectacular to see in person, as was the Spanish Steps. Just up the road from the Piazza del Popolo, was a Children's Museum that we spent an afternoon at. The boys loved this place! They had free run of the entire facility that was comprised of numerous hands-on activities for kids up through elementary school to engage with. Both boys loved the water-based activities.

Random Thoughts

The legacy of the Roman Republic and Empire can be seen throughout the city. No matter where you are, you're likely to encounter some piece of antiquity. While walking to the Spanish Steps prior to taking the kids to the Children's museum, we walked through the Piazza del Popolo, in the center of which sits an Egyptian obelisk (right) that was brought back to the capital by Augustus.

The Castel Sant Angelo (below, right), which rises above the Tiber near the Vatican, while modified and expanded throughout the centuries, started out as the mausoleum of the emperor Hadrian.

Walking back to Piazza Venezia from the Pantheon by way of Piazza Navona, we walked past the Largo di Torre Argentina (below, left), an ancient roman theater complex (a small one mind you), where Julius Caesar was assassinated.

Rome was a great trip for us, and one which we all returned from surprisingly well rested. We had six full days in Rome, and toward the end, it got to be long. As stated earlier, Rome can be done in 3-4 days, but they'll be long days. We enjoyed having the ability to take our time and not rush from place to place in an effort to see everything.

As our initial travel contest revealed, we traveled to Pisa, Italy for the Martin Luther King, Jr. holiday weekend. I had been studying the Ryanair fares for the entire month of December and surprisingly the fares barely moved in price. Recognizing the good deal that was before us, we jumped and set in motion our weekend in Tuscany, which would be one of many firsts.

Now, being our first, non-driving trip in Europe, we relied heavily upon our multiple friends who had a wealth of experience to help get us through this first aviation adventure. Ryanair flies out of both Frankfurt International and Hahn airports. The Pisa route is an out and back flight from Hahn, totaling an hour and twenty minutes one way. Hahn is roughly an hour and a half from our home in Homburg, and with the exception of the check-in personnel being somewhat confused that we one, bought a ticket for our infant, and two, were planning to have said infant in his FAA-approved car seat the entire flight, the check-in process was very effortless. (as an aside, Europeans apparently do not commonly travel with their small children in car seats approved for airline use).

The flight yielded two of Will's best quotes from the entire trip. First, on emerging from the overcast cloud layer and continuing to climb: "Um, mom, I think we're on the wrong plane, this plane is going into outer space." Second, upon reaching the Alps, Janet pointed out the peaks to Will who said "Mom, we're in Colorado!"

Arriving in Pisa was one of the easiest post-flight experiences I've yet had. Our initial impressions of the region immediately had us comparing the views to those back in Colorado Springs, with the major exception being the proximity to the Mediterranean. Coming from perennially overcast Germany, it was such a relief to see the sun for the entire weekend. As part of the Ryanair benefit, we managed to get a rental car for less than $10 a day, which I was offered an upgrade for 12 Euro to a larger SUV. Our first stop: Ikea for lunch; which was surprisingly good and had a number of regional-specific dishes (read: pasta, lasagna, etc)... then off to the Square of Miracles.

Now, I had seen photos of the leaning tower for as far back as I can remember, and none of them captured the reality. Maybe it was the mid-afternoon lighting, but our visit to the Square could not have been more perfect. Besides the obligatory photos of us holding up the tower (or in Will's case, trying to kick it over), Janet and my favorite had to be the Baptistery which is the circular building in the photo above. The architecture, the acoustics, and the singular focus of the facility had us in awe.

After concluding our visit to the Square of Miracles, we set off east toward the small village of Perignano. Having booked our first Ryanair flight, we figured it was worthwhile to book our first AirBnB. The apartment we stayed in was about 25 minutes from downtown Pisa, had two bedrooms and a bathroom, and most importantly, a full kitchen which thankfully kept our meal budget within its budget. Our host, Francesco, was great. He met us at the apartment, provided a full rundown of the features, answered a few of our questions about the Tuscany region and was gracious enough to carry our single checked bag up to the apartment when we arrived. While Janet got things settled, Will and I ran to the little grocery market a few minutes away to grab the essentials for dinner and breakfasts over the next couple of days.

Sunday morning arrived and we were excited for our first full day in Italy. During our research, we discovered that there is a small US military post north of Livorno, and we were excited to celebrate the Lord's Day with fellow Americans. Following the service, we set off for the short trip to Livorno, lunch and the day's surprise for the boys. Located about 20 minutes southwest of Pisa, Livorno is located on the Mediterranean coast and serves as the port of entry for the many cruise ships dropping tourists off to see Pisa for the day.

We liked Livorno--mostly due to having been landlocked for the preceding five and half months and reveling in the opportunity to be near the ocean again. We chose a little pizzeria along the promenade adjacent to the Livorno Aquarium, where we enjoyed a pizza and calzone. For being as small as it was, the aquarium was designed very well, featuring the many inhabitants of the Med, as well as from other locations across the globe. Topping the visit was seeing the resident sea turtles, two of which were nearly the size of a (Smart) car. After our visit with the sea turtles, we strolled the Terrazza Mascagni (above) and visited the Fortezza Nuova, one of several fortifications build during the reign of the House of Medici.

Our final full day in Italy was spent in the Roman-founded, fully preserved medieval walled city of Lucca. Lucca is about an hour north of Perignano and was an extremely scenic drive. One third of the way there, Janet pointed out the Vicopaisano castle complex rising above the road. We enjoyed the climb up to the castle proper even though during the winter it is only open on Saturdays. The remainder of the drive to Lucca was just a scenic as the first third with incredible views of the surrounding mountains as we weaved our way through multiple villages.

Lucca was by far our favorite place out of our travels this trip. Lucca is an interesting collection of old and modern juxtaposition. Modernity is seamlessly integrated into the layout of the city, and didn't diminish the city's historic buildings or atmosphere. It was strange to sit and enjoy our lunch in a small eatery squeezed into an older storefront, but yet had free wifi. The highlights of our day were authentic Italian Gelato (the pear was amazing!), and then our four-person bike tour of the city walls.

Now when you think about medieval city walls, the mind immediately goes to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany or Canterbury, England with their clearly defensive focus and relative thinness. Lucca's city walls are in a league of their own. Easily averaging more than 75 feet in thickness, the exterior masonry is bolstered by an incredible amount of earthworks; so much so that the perimeter of the wall now hosts a walking and biking path that covers 2.75 miles, and has numerous picnic areas and several playgrounds that the boys enjoyed. The day concluded with a stop at PAM, a major supermarket chain, to purchase some gifts for friends, family and ourselves.

Overall we enjoyed our first trip to Italy, and flying into Pisa with Ryanair was easy and efficient. We'll use Pisa as our hub when we return to visit Cinque Terra and Florence. With how much we enjoyed Lucca, we might add that to the to-visit list again as well.

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